21st Century Retailing

•  Retailers get excited to clinch onto the New York Glamour collections.
• The calender trend for fall 2011 embellish sleek looks from established leaders such as Ralph Lauren and Donna Karen , to arising talented designers like Joseph Altuzarra. The exceptional collections included Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Theyskens’ Theory, Rodarte, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Thakoon, Chado Ralph Rucci and Phillip Lim. "Bringing glamour back, it is usually good news for retail" says bloomingdales's vice president fashion director, Stephanie Solomon. Even the contemporary designers called attention to their market with dressed up clothes with luxurious fabrics, bead work, real and fux fur & leather that were wearable, while also making prices more affordable. After seeing the collections many retailers had comments to say. 
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• Saks Fifth Avenue: Fashion director, Colleen Sherin thought the standout collections were: Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Phillip Lim, Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory and Calvin Klein. The fashion key trends she identified were: High-impact outerwear such as parkas, anoraks, puffers, peacoats, capes and vests, often with hoods and dramatic fur collars; new takes on shearling; culottes; tuxedo-inspired looks in blouses, jackets and pants; feminine skirts and dresses pared back to chunky knitwear, and global-inspired prints.

                   Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2011



Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2011

• Bloomingdale’s: Vice president of fashion direction at Stephanie Solomon, thought the Standout collections were: Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and the contemporary designers showing collections filled with references to Hollywood glamour. 
• The identified key trends she was analyzed: Trim or fur on vests or jackets; statement coats with leather sleeves or other interesting details; longer lengths such as pencil skirts, and ladylike blouses. It feels right to dress up again. Key trends — losers: Very wide-leg, pleated palazzo pants won’t fly off the shelves this fall. Linda Fargo, 
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• Bergdorf Goodman: Senior vice president for the fashion office and store presentation, Linda Fargo
  Standout collections: Adam, Alexander Wang, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Rodarte, Narciso Rodriguez, Jason Wu, Naeem Khan, Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Altuzarra, Derek Lam, Theyskens’ Theory and Chado Ralph Rucci.  
• Key trends — keepers: As a reaction to this winter, outerwear and fur were exceptionally strong and diverse. Longer lengths, clean tailoring, plaids, pleats and lace. Black, gray and inky colors with reds — bright color for winter has broken through and will be in demand.
  
  
  Lane Crawford: Fashion director, Sarah Rutson at Hong Kong
  Standout collections: There were very few. Alexander Wang for his reworking of tuxedo shapes; Rag & Bone; Proenza Schouler’s Santa Fe prints and macramé; The Row’s spot-on tailoring, and Marc Jacobs, who gave us something different from everyone else’s huge lack of diversity. 
• Key trends — keepers: Colored fur and Mongolian lamb; fantastic knitwear; wide-leg pants, and some very well-executed tailoring. Lush color in berry tones and a strong pop of sharp blue, orange or red.  
• Key trends — losers: Midcalf-length skirts and dresses don’t look good on any woman and look so frumpy and old that they’re very hard to pull off; kilts and plaids, and, after three seasons, parkas.

  

  Altuzarra RTW Fall 2011

  
  Harvey Nichols: Chief buying director, Averyl Oates from London
  Standout collections: Rodarte’s exquisite long dresses; Marc by Marc Jacobs’ Forties and the Seventies looks with a modern vintage feel; Alice + Olivia’s flapper-era dresses; Donna Karan’s sophisticated urban clothes and Oscar-worthy gowns, and Theyskens Theory’s slouchy jackets, coats and knitwear. At Marc Jacobs, all of the trends came together, but his Seventies influence was more strict and severe. The clothes, although in some cases extreme, were ladylike and sexy. 
• Key trends — keepers: Outerwear, Forties silhouettes.
  
  
  Neiman Marcus: Senior vice president and fashion director Ken Downing.
• Standout collections: Proenza Schouler’s multicultural references balanced with a ladylike point of view; Marc Jacobs’ knits and ruby red cigarette pants; Jason Wu’s ladylike elegance; Prabal Gurung’s outstanding show; Donna Karan’s clothes that will go from the runway straight to a woman’s wardrobe without a second thought; Alexander Wang’s return to the future; Altuzarra’s aggressive outerwear, and Thakoon’s electric blue and tomato red jackets.  
• Key trends — keepers: Colors such as cranberries and merlots mixed with magentas and shades of pink, and winter white — it’s becoming the new camel. 
• Key trends — losers: The whole idea of Seventies and boho was perfect for the spring season. My eye is laser-focused on the polish and elegance of ladylike dressing.
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• Nordstrom's: Executive vice president of designer merchandising, Jeffrey Kalinsky
• Standout collections: Jason Wu; Theyskens’ Theory; Alexander Wang’s cool outerwear; Joseph Altuzurra’s fur-trimmed parkas, and Michael Kors’ glamour.
  
  Key trends — keepers: Fur; a big move toward grunge, and lingering Seventies influence. Being of the generation that grew up on the Seventies, I never get tired of that decade.
  
  Key trends — losers: There were a lot of long skirts and, while I always love a good long skirt, I’m not feeling them as much for fall.
  

  

  Theyskens' Theory RTW Fall 2011

  Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, Canada
  Standout collections: Marc Jacobs summed up the season — a return to elegance that was refined and polished. Marc by Marc Jacobs took that signature to an accessible price point. Also, Michael Kors’ easy man-tailored coats and perfect cigarette pants; Alexander Wang; Theyskens’ Theory’s sensibility, and Rodarte’s clothes, which were more accessible in their wearability. We’re on the lookout for new collections. We’re picking up Rachel Zoe and we’re buying Kelly Wearstler.
  
  Key trends — keepers: Elongated hemlines; higher-waisted pants; rounded shoulders; knits, and a return to the suit.
  
  
  Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director at Macy’s Inc.
  Standout collections: Doo.Ri, Jason Wu, Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung, Chris Benz, Richard Chai, Eden, Suno, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Chado Ralph Rucci, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs.
  
  Key trends — keepers: Fur is very important, for example, parkas with fur trim; chubby jackets, natural or recolored fur coats or vests; knitwear with interesting textures, patterns and colorations; midlength skirts; cropped skinny pants and wide-leg pants; tuxedo looks; pant suits, and interesting new greens and reds and shades of blue.
  
  
  Amanda Brooks, fashion director, Barneys New York
  Standout collections: Alexander Wang’s young and cool show was wearable for a diverse audience; Rodarte’s more realistic approach to wearing [the collection] in real life; Altuzarra’s great separates and inspiring coats; The Row’s beautifully made investment pieces; Prabal Gurung; Phillip Lim’s great clothes at a great price that all the cool girls will want to wear; Thakoon’s feminine silhouettes; Zero + Maria Cornejo; M. Patmos; Proenza Schouler, and Derek Lam.
  
  Key trends — keepers: Sporty parkas with fur, shearling bomber jackets and anoraks; unconventional hemlines; chunky knit sweaters, and high-waisted pants.
  
  Key trends — losers: Sweaters over long skirts for day.
  
  
  Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty
  Standout collections: Alexander Wang for street-inspired luxe and glamour; Daryl K, a woman for a woman’s body; Joseph Altuzarra’s sensual and tough show with amazing outerwear; Theyskens’ affordable drama, and Marc by Marc Jacobs’ focused, cheeky and easy looks.
  
  Open-to-buy: Our budgets are up 10 percent with additional money for new resources; we’re looking at four new brands.
  
  Key trends — keepers: Vibrant color; winter white; street glam, and fashionable, functional outwear.
  
  Key trends — losers: Colorblocking again; fake heritage; camel overload, and wearing everything plus the kitchen sink just to get your picture taken.
• Retailers Praise New York Glamour - Retail Store and Industry News - WWD.com
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• "The Coming 21st Century Store"
• RIT Retail Expert Predicts ‘The 21st Century Store,’ But Who Will Survive? - RIT News
• The Retailing business seems to have been experiencing retail bankruptcies, employee layoffs, and consolidations growing daily--playing a toll in manufacturing, service, and wholesale firms, says Eugene Fram, emeritus professor of marketing at Rochester Institute of Technology's E. Phillip Saunders College of Business. "The Battle of Retailer Giants" has been a competitive struggle since the beginning of 1990. It seems to be the final engagements for larger and well managed financed retail corporations have bumped smaller businesses out of the way in the market share. The only surviving giants will advance with some smaller retail chains, which offer unique merchandise and friendly customer service. At National level, Federated Department Stores, now Macy's, acquired May Company stores. At regional level, Home Depot and Lowe's forced the Super Markets Wegman to close its subsidiary 17 store home improvement chain retail stores. Best Buy has gossip that it is obtaining some of the closed Circuit City locations. Consumers have interest to have access to more material possessions and Fram predicts that retail stores will reduce to just a few main large retail chains like Wal-Mart, Target, Barnes & Noble and Costco. Also he said likely to survive are regional chains like Fry's and Magnolia known for being well-branded. Also, it is said by John Zogby, a well known pollster that consumer buying consumption with continue to decline, along with a counter further attention on both environmental and financial savings. There is less focus on material acquisitions and people will be looking in their closets for apparel instead of looking to retail stores for the latest trends. The development of new electronic retail technologies will help guide the way to the next innovative way of a retail store. Some of the future and already technical future advances are"Operating costs will be substantially reduced by RFID chips, self checkouts, completely automated supply chains, automated grocery purchasing, virtual apparel purchasing and electronic dressing rooms. The department store could be an advance way of retailing with electronic support that grants the customer to virtually see herself immediately in a garment. If garment is bought immediately at the store it will be sold at regular price but it can also be purchased with a discounted charge if delivered from a central warehouse within a few days. The advantage for this, huge retailers would save a huge amount of money if sent from warehouse because of the reduced inventory-carrying costs and customers would benefit if they were in a hurry shopping.
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